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Author, Speaking Stones: Rock Art of Ladakh
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE BOOK
- First-ever visual documentation of Ladakh’s petroglyphs on such a scale using special photography techniques.
- Illustrated maps
- 260 photographs
- Well researched text and bibliography
- International recognition
Solo exhibition in Paris in November 2024, alongside the book release. - Foreword by His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama.
- Additional foreword by Martin Vernier (HIRADa founder)
Her work has been featured in various travel and lifestyle magazines, including Outlook Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, Marie Claire, Design Today, and more.
Ahtushi was recognized as one of India’s top 80 photographers, with her work featured in a book and exhibition celebrating 75 years of Indian photography, published by Museo Camera, the Centre for the Photographic Arts.
The travelogue “To the Land of Snow,” which details high-altitude solo trekking, has become required reading in high school literature classes.
Her photography encompasses a broad range, including travel, documentary, food, architecture, events, and hotels.
Let’s Get Inspired
In Conversation with Ahtushi Deshpande
– Preeti Juneja
Q. How did you get started in photography?
My interest in photography began in a home where creativity was appreciated. My avid hobbyist photographer father transformed our store into a darkroom. The heady mix of developing chemicals and the mysterious red glow of the darkroom fascinated me. Watching the image magically appear on paper when he left his prints for washing in the bathtub was surreal, and this early exposure to photography ignited a lifelong passion within me.
I saved up for my first SLR camera when I was 17. However, it remained a hobby until 2004, when I turned my passion into a profession after a stint in television. I started working with Outlook Traveller magazine as a travel writer and photographer. My debut travel feature, “To the Land of Snow,” on the Milam Glacier trek, was published by Outlook was later also incorporated into Tamil Nadu’s high school English curriculum.
Though I explored various roles within the field of photography, including paparazzi (IIFA Awards) and commercial work, my true love has always been travel and documentary photography. Once I had found the perfect confluence of my passion for trekking with my work as an adventure travel writer and photographer, I’ve never looked back.
Q. If you were to use photography as a medium to influence society or create change, what would you focus on?
I believe in using photography to influence the world and foster positive narratives through my journey. By turning my passion into a profession and exploring new subjects like rock art, I’ve demonstrated the potential we all have within us. My book on the rock art of Ladakh showcases how dedication to one’s passion can lead to meaningful outcomes. This particular project showed me the value of sharing the histories and cultures of places that inspire me, such as Ladakh, hoping that it will do so for my audience as well.
Additionally, during my 1st cancer diagnosis and cancer treatment in 2015, I documented my journey through chemotherapy, capturing the process of hair loss and regrowth. This project, titled “The Color of My Cancer,” was exhibited by the Tata Memorial Breast Cancer Initiative, revealing a perspective on cancer that extends beyond the disease and delves into a more vulnerable reflection of both loss and renewal. It aimed to challenge the myths surrounding cancer, confront the associated stigma, and rise above the fear.
By focusing the lens on my own experience, I sought to be a catalyst for change and inspire others.
Q. Tell us about your book, “Speaking Stones: Rock Art of Ladakh”
The inspiration for this work came from discussions with my friend Viraf Mehta about the presence of petroglyphs in Ladakh. When I first saw these petroglyphs in 2011, it was like I had been struck by a lightning bolt – Ladakh’s rugged, isolated terrain seemed an unlikely setting for such ancient artistry. Yet, there they were: these mysterious, mask-like symbols and abstract engravings of animals etched into rock – remnants of a prehistoric world previously unknown to me. This stirred something deep within me and I knew I had to document these extraordinary panels.
The book provides a glimpse into the ancient artistry carved into the rugged rock surfaces of Ladakh, a high-altitude desert with a history that extends beyond its known narrative. Each site showcases its unique style and execution, underscoring Desmond Morris’s idea that artistry is an inherent human trait, regardless of material conditions. Despite the lack of funding and the difficulties of scouting expansive sites without GPS, I have managed to represent every region of Ladakh.
I undertook 18 trips to Ladakh, with 14 of these trips focused solely on photographing this art.
After completing my shoots in 2019, the challenge shifted to curating thousands of images into a cohesive book. Over the past five years, I have worked to make this relatively obscure subject accessible, combining my unique perspective with detailed research from academic papers, international publications, maps, travel insights, and contextual information.
a) What makes it a unique piece of work?
It is the first of its kind work in the mainstream in India by a non academic looking at the subject through the lens of art.
- As the first comprehensive monograph to cover all regions of Ladakh, it offers detailed illustrated maps, relevant context, and a modern geographical perspective that links the ancient past with the present.
- Featuring over 260 color photographs, including some previously unseen, the book provides a fresh and accessible view of a subject that remains relatively obscure, even within Ladakh.
- This project transcends traditional documentation, positioning photography as a powerful tool for both education and conservation. It pioneers the use of night photography and other innovative techniques to capture these ancient artworks specifically in this region.
- As the first major Indian contribution exploring rock art through the lenses of art, photography, and travel, the book stands out for its originality and personal aesthetic.
- The book offers a fresh perspective on Ladakh’s rich cultural heritage and its links to regions beyond its borders. Translating this subject from academic research to a format accessible to the general public was the challenging part.
I had to thoroughly understand the scientific perspectives, yet it became clear that we may never have all the answers since we are far removed from these worlds today and we can never know what motivated these ancient people not just in India but all over the world to create art on stone.
b) If you were to request government support, what would you ask for?
I would request government support to select key Ladakh sites for conservation and potential World Heritage status. Collaborate with rock art researchers like Viraf Mehta and Tashi LDawa Tsangspa, who have advanced the conservation narrative in recent years, and engage young Ladakhis who are increasingly getting involved with the subject.
I hope my book will also be the much needed enabler in this regard and find its place in school and college libraries where it could rekindle an interest in a waning branch of the social sciences. By highlighting something through artfully done photography, one can bring attention to a subject in ways that one may not otherwise manage.
C) Ladakh is a paradise for photographers. Did anyone else get inspired by you and join you in your journey to this endeavour?
Ladakh’s harsh environment demands passion and obsession. Traversing vast plateaus in scorching heat and freezing temperatures was challenging, and as a self-funded project, I often traveled during the cheaper winter months. My only constant companion was Jigmet Dorjay, my driver and assistant, who joined me on 70% of my journeys. This solo endeavor could not have been achieved any other way.
I’m also deeply grateful to the local Ladakhis who welcomed me into their homes in remote areas without hotels. Their generosity and kindness were truly heartwarming.
Q. Tell us about places that were not very much explored, that you had the opportunity to visit and photograph early in your career?
From the beginning, I’ve had a deep passion for off-beat travel, thriving on the solitude and intrigue of uncharted trails. Long before I stumbled upon Ladakh, I was already on a quest for the road less traveled. One of my earliest adventures was a month-long assignment with Outlook Traveller guidebooks, where I ventured into the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve.
I tackled three consecutive treks in the reserve over a month, including the Kagbhushandi, Dronagiri and Nanda Devi National Pak routes. The first two were not well-trodden paths; instead, we navigated by following ancient cairns and making our own way through the rugged terrain. The isolation was palpable and the wilderness was completely untamed, with no other travelers in sight. These treks marked the beginning of my career and set the stage for many more adventures to come.
Rapid-Fire:
- Is there any specific project or shoot you’re particularly proud of?
The shoot I did for GEO magazine on the architecture of Himachal Pradesh was quite special. Capturing the ancient palaces, fortresses, and the distinctive, ‘Kath – khuni (wood and stone) architecture was an incredible experience. This project was a unique exploration, much like the petroglyphs of Ladakh that captivated me years later.
2.What is the best way to store hi-resolution photographs?
The best way to store high-resolution photos is to back them up on at least two drives, delete extras, and stay organized so you can access them with ease.
3.What do you enjoy most about being a photographer?
I love the freedom to explore new places and connect with strangers, engaging with the world and its stories through my art.
4.When is the last time who shopped for camera or accessories?
Two years back when I bought the Sony A7 mirrorless camera and decided to put aside my Canon cameras and lenses.
5.Which camera lenses should one carry on treks?
For treks, opt for a light setup with a 2.8 wide lens like the 28-70 (2.8) and 70-200 f/4, plus a small macro lens for close-ups.
One-Liners:
1.A reputed Institute for learning photography in India is: I belong to the self taught school so hard to say!
2.My role-model in photography field is: Steve McCurry
3.The most photogenic personality is: Mother Teresa
4.Cancer has taught me to: to embrace the present like there is no tomorrow
5.Winning is about: Overcoming and rising above our limitations one step at a time
About Author
Ahtushi Deshpande
Embarking on a journey of self-discovery, Ahtushi Deshpande, an independent, self-taught photographer and writer, began experimenting with photography at a young age. The love for the mountains was deeply rooted during her first multi-day trek in the Himalayas at age 20, igniting a passion that led to numerous solo expeditions exploring the untamed beauty of diverse natural terrains over the next three decades.
Author of “Speaking Stones” a decade-long endeavor meticulously curated over the past three years into a museum-grade collection. This project aims to present Ladakh’s finest Rock Art panels in a format accessible to the public, antiquarians, travellers and art enthusiasts.
7th August 2024
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